Understanding the Connection Between Your Body and Your Blocks
Why did I freeze frame this on such a silly expression!
I just wanted to start with a screenshot from my recent tutorial where I show you how the lines you're drawing on your bodice block relate to your body. It's easy for me to forget how none of this made any sense at all when I drafted my first block 34 years ago, and how I just had to trust the instructions and the maths.
If like me, you like knowing why - not just how; then this is the video you'll want to watch - from the response in the comments - it helps it all click.
A few weeks back, someone asked me on a pants pattern video, 'why' I was doing something, not 'how' to do it - this simple question led to a whole new video format for me. And because I enjoy geometry (I know, what a nerd), I'm having fun!
Your block is a 2D version of your body
Every line, measurement and curve has a purpose, and understanding what each one represents helps you to make sense of your blocks and patterns.
Drafting the trouser block is a great example of, "What on earth am I doing that for?!"
In this video I go through the calculations of the crotch curve and extension, why we do the maths we do, and most importantly, I show you how those calculations and the curves you draw actually relate to your shape.
Here is not the place to go in to the detail - that's what the video is for - a much better format for explaining this, so why don't you take a look.
Of course the response I got from the pants video led me to make a bodice one too. The biggest point of confusion when drafting a fitted bodice block (also coat and semi-fitted blocks) is the darts and the shoulder slope. There's a lot going on, and your pattern can look a bit unexpected when drafting, but this video helps to clear up why some people's blocks can make them question if they've done something wrong - chances are you haven't!
It all starts with accurate body measurements
This is absolutely essential, most of the time when a block doesn't fit perfectly, it's because a body measurement was slightly off, just 1cm out can throw all sorts of things off, particularly the length from side neck to waist - and the proportion from front to back.
Have you ever had to do a full or small bust adjustment? If you draft a block with your own measurements you'll never have to do this again.
You really need to take your time with your body measurements. My video above shows you the essentials, and I measure them all on myself - something you're most likely to need to do.
Getting these accurate will give you the best result - but it's not easy, and that's why I have several fitting video's to help you fine tune your patterns and blocks.
Including of course - gape darts (above) - an essential technique to understand if you want to be a great pattern cutter - honestly, they're pretty easy once you learn why we do them.
Don't expect your first draft to be perfect
Ok, so hopefully it won't be as bad as in my intentially bad fitting sample below, but this video shows you just how much you can correct a bad fitting pattern when you fit that very important toile!
So as you can see, pattern cutting and fitting are part of the same skill - you need to learn them both to get the best fitting garments. Whether you're drafting your own patterns or fitting commercial patterns - the skill is the same.
If you're working with a pattern you've bought and want to get it fitting much better I'd always recommend doing the basic adjustments (e.g. height, bust.....) to the pattern first. Then make a sample, even if you don't sample the whole pattern I'd recommend sampling the essential parts. ie, if it's trousers, just sample them to the knee, if it's a top, you might get away with sampling just one side. Any time you spend at this stage is time you'll save later, and best to not ruin your lovely fabric - keep all your scraps and old bed sheets for sampling.
Your perfect fitting block is the foundation for future patterns.
Once you've made a block that accurately represents your figure, you have what you need for making clothes - that fit!
Many people ask me how they can use their block to fit commercial patterns better. The purpose of the block is to make patterns from it, but if you do want to use it to help get a better fit on bought patterns, you can use it for the essential measurements like the height and width, and even use it to trace armhole shapes, check the shoulder slope, crotch extension etc...
My denim trucker jacket pattern is a great example of what you can do with your blocks once they fit - start with a simple design and work your way up to more complicated ideas.
Achieving a great fit isn't about getting everything right first time. It's about understanding the relationship between your body and your pattern, and knowing how to make adjustments when they're needed.
