Sew an invisible zip perfectly - and easily!

alison morris
6 days ago
2 min read

I'll break it down in to 10 quick steps, to make it as easy as possible.

You can also watch a video tutorial on YouTube.

Step 1

Make sure your zip is the correct length, if it's not, you can correct it by stitching across the teeth, then cutting the excess off and binding the rough end with some fabric or tape.

Step 2

Position your zip. The centre of the zip (the teeth) should sit where your seamline is, the pins here mark the seam line. The top edge should sit just above the top of the zip pull.

Step 3

Pin the zip on, the teeth will be on the opposite side to the seam edge. Make sure you don't stretch the fabric or the zip while doing it.

Step 4

Close your zip to make sure it lines up. Check the top edge, any seams or pattern that need to match, and check the seam below the zip.

Step 5

Sew the zip down either side with it open, sew until your foot hits the zip pull. An invisible zipper foot helps to sew nice and close to the teeth, you can fold the teeth down a bit to get even closer. If you're using velvet, lace, or something that might get caught in the zip make sure you don't sew too close.

Step 6

Finish off the seam below the zip. Make sure the zip is pulled out of the way, and sew up to the stitches you've sewn the zip on with. Get as close as you can, and overlap by 2-3 stitches.

Step 7

Give it a good press. Press the seam below the zip, then flip it over and iron the full length of the zip.

Step 8

If you're having a lining or facing, sew it on now. Put right sides together, with the lining / facing overlapping underneath by 5mm. Sew down the length of the zip approximately 5mm from the stitch line of sewing the zip on. A regular zip foot helps you get close enough. Sew right to the bottom.

Step 9

If your zip is going to have a waistband you can skip this step. Fold the edge over so that the lining touches the lining, like in the picture above. Then sew across the top edge using the seam allowance you've cut. You can now trim the seam allowance off before turning the correct way around.